Wild-Simulated Ginseng Growing Method

Wild-Simulated Ginseng Growing Method

Growing ginseng using the wild-simulated method will produce ginseng roots that are almost indistinguishable from wild ginseng roots. Wild ginseng is often more prized and more valuable because it grows slowly in the forest floor environment. Of the three common approaches to growing ginseng, the wild-simulated method is usually the simplest, least expensive, and least time consuming in terms of ongoing maintenance.

There is very little intervention involved. The main investment is the cost of ginseng seeds and labor, especially when it is time to dig the roots. There is no need to use fungicides or other chemicals, and there is no need to construct and maintain costly shade structures. Steep hillsides that would otherwise be unused can now serve a purpose.

The tradeoff is time. The wild-simulated method takes the longest time from planting to harvest. It is a slow process that requires patience. The goal is to grow ginseng roots that are similar to ginseng found in the wild, in planting sites that allow each plant to grow, thrive, and survive naturally.

Planting Site Selection

Selecting the proper planting site is crucial. The ideal location is an area where natural wild ginseng grows or has grown. A north- or east-facing slope is preferred.

Look for a woodland site where shade is provided by mature mixed deciduous hardwoods such as poplar, sugar maple, and oak trees. The soil should be rich, moist, nutrient-rich, high in organic matter, and located on some degree of slope for proper drainage. Swampy soil or heavy clay soil will not do well.

Trees with mature root systems will compete less for soil moisture near the surface. If the shade canopy is sufficient, there should not be a lot of weed growth.

Companion Plants to Look For

Companion plants can be helpful signs that a woodland site may be suitable for ginseng. Look for plants such as baneberry, black cohosh, blue cohosh, bloodroot, foam flower, goldenseal, jack-in-the-pulpit, jewelweed, mayapple, Solomon’s seal, trillium, yellow lady’s slipper, wild ginger, and different types of ferns such as maidenhair, rattlesnake, and Christmas fern.

Soil Testing and Calcium

Before planting, a soil test is recommended. Contact a soil conservation service or your state agricultural extension office for a soil analysis. One level to pay close attention to is calcium (Ca), because calcium is important in fighting disease.

Soil with high calcium, over 2,000 pounds per acre, low pH, and adequate phosphorus levels of at least 95 pounds per acre has been associated with healthy and vigorous wild ginseng growth. If the calcium level is low, gypsum, or calcium sulfate, may be added. Gypsum is a natural material that can increase calcium in the soil without significantly changing soil chemistry or pH.

There is no exact universal formula, but a safe estimate is to add 100 pounds of gypsum per 1,000 square feet if calcium levels are below 1,000 pounds per acre. Add gypsum after fall seeding and before mulching. Take another soil test in late winter. If calcium levels are still under 2,000 pounds per acre, add about 50 pounds of gypsum per 1,000 square feet of planted area just before plants begin spring growth. Gypsum can also be added during the growing season if the plants are not growing vigorously or if there is evidence of disease.

Site Preparation

There are many ways to prepare a site when planting wild-simulated ginseng. In many cases, the only tools needed are a rake and a garden hoe. If you are planting only a couple pounds of seed in several promising sites, very little site preparation may be necessary. If space is limited or you plan to use most of a promising site, it is worth spending time preparing the area.

To avoid summer heat, begin site preparation in early spring or mild winter. After selecting a promising site, rake the leaf litter to the side. Remove dead limbs, rocks, and aggressively growing shrubs that might compete with your ginseng. Use judgment when dealing with large rocks and large trees; the expense and effort of removing them may not be necessary.

Do not do more work than necessary. If a spot in the planting area is clearly unsuitable, such as a sunny spot with abundant shrubs, leave it alone. Saw off low-hanging branches to improve air circulation. Clearing all companion plants from the forest floor may not be necessary. Other plants can help inhibit the spread of disease and provide competition similar to natural wild conditions. The goal is minimal disturbance while giving ginseng a fair chance to grow.

On steep slopes, after seeding and mulching, place dead limbs or well-branched young saplings across the face of the slope. This helps keep mulch and leaf litter from washing away after heavy rainfall.

Planting Wild-Simulated Ginseng

The ideal time to plant ginseng is in the fall when the trees lose their leaves. If possible, plan to plant ginseng seeds one to three days before expected rain. The rain will water the seeds and repack the leaf litter, helping the site hold moisture.

Measure and stake out planting areas and include wide walkways. Planting beds should run up and down the slope for better drainage. Rake the leaf litter back to bare ground. Some growers rake over the soil surface to add texture so the seeds make good contact with the soil.

There are different ways to plant the seeds. If you hand-cast seed, weigh out small quantities and cast them over small areas. For example, 2 ounces over 200 square feet will result in about 4 to 5 seeds per square foot. This helps control spacing and avoids overly dense planting. If planting seeds by hand, plant about 4 to 5 seeds per square foot.

The ideal final plant density is about 1 to 2 plants per square foot. Anything more increases the risk of disease spreading among the plants and roots.

You can add gypsum after sowing the seeds if needed. Some growers carefully step down each row to firm the soil around the seeds after planting. Plant seeds no more than 1 inch deep; ideally, 1/2 to 3/4 inch is best. Then rake the leaves back over the bed to serve as mulch. No more than 3 inches of leaf litter is necessary. Too much mulch can make it difficult for ginseng sprouts to push through.

After a couple of rainstorms, the site should look completely natural, and no one should be able to tell that planting occurred. After planting is complete, there is no more work to do until it is time to dig the roots in about 6 to 10 years, or even later. You may visit your planting sites, but be careful not to disturb the plants. Let nature take its course.

Germination and Natural Losses

In reality, roughly 50% of the seeds may not germinate. There are many possible reasons. Seeds may be eaten by birds, insects, rodents, or slugs. Seeds may not have had enough contact with the soil. Wind or rain may blow or wash away mulch, leaving seeds exposed to dry out or be eaten.

The plants that do grow will grow naturally for the next several years while facing natural forest conditions. Severe weather, competition for nutrients and water, insects, rodents, and disease pressure all contribute to the stressful growing conditions that help produce roots similar to wild ginseng roots.

Investment and Patience

Aside from the initial investment of acquiring ginseng seeds, most of the cost of the wild-simulated method is labor during planting and especially during digging. If you can do the work yourself or with trusted family and friends, the cost can be greatly reduced.

A half acre can produce anywhere from 0 to 200 pounds of dried roots over a period of 6 to 10 years. Wild-simulated growing can be unpredictable, but a decent income can be earned if you have patience and discretion. Much is learned through trial and error and experience. The planting site’s fertility and the forces of nature strongly affect the quality and quantity of the harvested roots.